Get the hand-cranked rolling type of machine, one with metal rollers - not the kind that works by having a motor extrude the dough through a plate. (The extruder-type machines aren't strong enough to work with polymer clay.)

The most widely-available brand seems to be Atlas. Another brand is Pasta Queen. (Look for a machine made in Italy; some clayworkers have reported quality problems with Atlas and Pasta Queen machines made in China.) If you want a larger machine to make bigger sheets and process larger amounts of clay, check out the Belpasta Trattorina pasta machine.

If you want a pasta machine but don't want to spend the money for a new one, consider haunting a few garage sales or flea markets, where you'll sometimes find these machines for sale at bargain prices.

Can I make a flat sheet without a pasta machine?

You can use a rolling pin (or anything with the same shape, such as a smooth glass) to make a flat sheet of clay. Roll it out between two sheets of waxed paper to avoid having it stick to the roller.

To ensure the sheet is an even thickness, put a dowel to either side of the clay, resting the roller on the dowel. This will flatten the clay sheet to the thickness of the dowel you're using.

How do I use the machine to condition clay?

First, press the clay into a fairly flat sheet. (If the clay is too stiff to do this, you'll need to warm and condition it first.)

Feed your sheet through the machine at the thickest setting - on the Atlas, this is setting #1. Fold the sheet in half and feed it through again, fold-first. Repeat this three or four times. Then increase the setting to the next level. Continue feeding the clay through the machine, three or four times at each level of thickness, until you get to setting #5 or #6. By this time, the clay will be conditioned and ready to use.

Normally, you shouldn't need to clean a pasta machine, although you may want to wipe off the rollers with a clean cloth (or run a cloth partway through the machine to make sure you get to all the roller surfaces). Some people use baby wipes to clean the rollers.

The metal flanges at the bottom of the machine sometimes trap bits of clay, which you can get at with a small stiff brush or toothbrush. Another trick is to run a piece of scrap clay or a baby wipe through the machine to pick up any loose flecks of clay.

Never soak the pasta machine in water or put it through the dishwasher; doing so will ruin the machine.

Can I use the same machine for food and clay?

Unfortunately, not safely, because the clay tends to work itself into the crannies of the pasta machine where you can't remove it. It's safer to use a separate machine for clay.

Why is the pasta machine shredding my clay?

If your clay isn't soft enough already, running it through the pasta machine will shred it instead of making a nice flat sheet. If you're having this problem, you probably need to condition your clay a little more first. The softer brands of clay can be used in a pasta machine without preconditioning, but if you're working in a cold room, you may need to at least warm the clay first.

You may not be able to roll the stiffer clays at the thinnest setting at all. If you're having trouble getting a sheet as thin as you want, roll it through at the next thicker setting several times first, folding it in half for each pass, then try it at the thinner setting.

If the clay seems to be sticking to the rollers, try laying it between sheets of waxed paper and running this "sandwich" through the machine. Or brush the surface of the clay very lightly with talc or cornstarch, then running it through the machine.

How is polymer clay hardened?

Firing is the process of heating the clay to make a finished piece. During firing, the temperature causes chemical changes in the clay, making it hard and strong. Polymer clay fires at low temperatures (below 300? Fahrenheit), so you don't need a special kiln - you can fire it in a kitchen oven.

You can lay flat pieces in a metal or glass baking sheet or pan (line the pan with baker's parchment or ordinary white paper to avoid getting shiny spots where the clay touches the hot surface).

Beads sometimes develop flat spots when laid on a baking sheet; these can be suspended on lengths of stiff wire (such as florist's wire) laid across the edges of the pan. You can also fold a piece of heavy paper accordian-style and lay the beads in the folds.

Irregular pieces can be laid on a bed of polyester fiberfill. The fill doesn't melt or burn at normal firing temperatures, but be sure it's not sticking up enough to touch the oven's heating element.

You don't need to fire the prepared pieces immediately, but if you're going to wait longer than a few hours, lay a sheet of waxed paper over them to keep dust and lint from getting on them.

What temperature should I set the oven to?

Recommendations on this vary, and you'll notice that different brands of clay call for different firing temperatures. It's a good idea to get an oven thermometer and use it to determine the actual temperature your oven gives. The oven temperature must reach at least 210? Fahrenheit or so for the polymer to fuse properly; if the temperature goes above 300? Fahrenheit, the clay may burn, giving off dangerous fumes.

Within these limits, any temperature will work, although you should avoid firing Sculpey translucent, Fimo art translucent, and possibly other translucent clays at high temperatures, because it may change their color. Manufacturers recommend temperatures between 250 and 275? Fahrenheit for all except transparent clays.

The firing time depends mainly on the thickness of your pieces. For clay a quarter of an inch thick, 20 minutes is plenty; for thicker pieces you may need to go up to an hour to get maximum strength.

Do I need to preheat the oven?

You can put your clay pieces into either a cold or a hot oven, although putting them into a preheated oven may make it easier to gauge the firing time.

If you're covering a surface (such as glass or metal) with clay, however, it may be better to put the piece into a cold oven, heat it to firing temperature, then let the piece cool down in the oven after firing. This gives the underlying material more time to expand and contract with the changes in temperature, making cracking of the clay less likely.

Yes. You can use any oven - convection, toaster, etc - as long as the temperature is reliable. It's a good idea to use an oven thermometer to make sure you have the correct temperature, since ovens often have a lot of variation in temperature. If your oven is small and the clay is only a few inches away from the heating element, place a tent of aluminum foil over the clay to diffuse the heat and avoid burning.

Some people prefer to use a toaster oven and put it outside (on a deck or balcony) during firing, for an extra margin of safety.

Does the color of the clay change when it's fired?

In general, the color of polymer clay stays the same after being fired. There are a few exceptions to this. Some reds turn darker after firing. Sculpey translucent tends to turn yellowish if it's fired above 220? or for more than 15 or 20 minutes (although this can actually be used to advantage for techniques such as faux ivory). Fimo art translucent may also darken if fired at the higher temperatures.

If you're in doubt, you can fire small samples of the colors you're using to see what the end result will look like.

How long can I safely fire polymer clay? Can I refire a finished piece?

You can fire a clay piece for up to several hours, as long as the temperature does not get above 300? Fahrenheit. You can fire a piece, then add more clay and fire again (for example, if you want to embed small clay pieces in larger pieces). The new clay will stick to the pre-fired clay, making a strong bond.

You can also fire a piece most of the way (10-15 minutes), take it out and carve or drill it while it's still a little soft, then finish firing it.

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