By Pat Turnert

Author  Bio Building a big trains, for big railroads.

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The gon as seen below is 6' long and 16 1/2" wide. I used 5/8" plywood for the main body parts and 5/8" square poplar for the ribs. The top rail is 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak.

All parts were glued with Liquid Nails or yellow wood glue and screwed or nailed. All plywood parts were screwed together with the proper length drywall type screws and the smaller parts such as the side ribs, end ribs and top rail were nailed. The finished car with couplers but less trucks weighed 55lbs and is very strong and stable.

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These are the HO cars I based some of my measurements on.

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Here is the prototype gon I used for measurements. The reason for pickimg this car is it was welded, no rivets needed!

Well, lets get started!

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The floor is 5' 9 3/4" long by 15 1/2" wide, cut out the floor and all other parts unless noted from 5/8" plywood.

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These look easy, but must be square and equal. Clamp 2 pieces of wood together for the final cuts to get them the same.

I did the same for the sides. Make sure the measurements match your floor. Use a 5/8" router bit to make a 1/4" deep groove for the floor in the ends (gray section in plan).

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All measurements for the side are given above. The center section between the ribs a little less than 6" wide. I used a 5/8" router bit to make a 1/4" deep groove for the bottom in both the sides and the ends (gray section in plan). Again, try to make sure your length matches your floor. But, the sides can also be trimmed after the body is assembled.

Centerstill and Crossmembers

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Cut a 2x4 6" shorter than the inside length of the underside of the car and notch as noted above.

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This car/bolster is made for Tom Bee trucks. If you are usimg other trucks you will need to modify the bolster to fit your trucks. Make sure the screws you use to hold down the steel plate are either flush with it or do not interfere with the movement of the trucks. The centerstill and the bolster are made from 2 x 4's.

NOTE:
I have since found out that for ample side frame clearance with a full load a simplified bolster is the best solution. Compare the simple bolster design above This does give up some strength, but will work better and is easier to build.

Now let's start puttimg the gon together.

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Here we have cut out and assembled the basic gon, 2 sides, 2 ends and floor. We are now puttimg on the poster board to make the flanges for the ribs. I put these on with standard Elmer's yellow wood glue, but the next one I will use the exterior/water proof type.

Lay the gon on it's side to install these and place a weight on each one as you go to keep them flat. Make sure they are vertical and stay that way as they dry, I had to adjust mine as they dried to keep them straight. They are 1 3/8" wide and trimmed to length after they are dry.

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As an afterthought you could glue the wood ribs on first, then cut a 3/8" piece of poster board to go on each side of the rib. This way the ribs would be glued and nailed directly to the side for more strength, but I have had no problem with the method described here to date.

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Here we have put on the corner cover to hide the joint. You could also use thin gauge aluminum for added durability.

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Here it is trimmed and ready.

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Here are the pieces of poster board cut and ready to install on the sides and corners as well as one of the half round end ribs. For a more modern gondola you could use more square wood stock for the end ribs.

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Here is a close-up of the side ribs installed. The side ribs are 5/8" square poplar cut at a 45 half way through at the bottom. I got them from Lowe's. Click on the above pic for a detail shot.

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Now we have the ribs on one side waitimg for the last 2 to dry. I put 2 or 3 finish nails in each one as well as liquid nails and clamped them till dry.

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One side done, on to the ends.

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This shows the poster board in place on the corners and the end ribs in place. The end ribs are half round trim with ends cut at 45 and sanded smooth. They are spaced an equal distance apart from the floor to the top. A few views of the ends with some grabs in place. I made the grabs from 1/8" steel rod and threaded it with 6-32 machine threads. These are a little over size, but very durable and look good when done. I used standard nuts on the outside and where hidden. On the inside I used acorn nuts so no threads stick out as shown below. Be sure to spray them with some good auto type primer.

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Here is the inside of the gon patched and sanded

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Now that I patched and sanded the inside next I sealed the floor with one coat of Polyurethane to protect it while doimg the rest of the work.

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I have now finished most work on the top and sides and put the final two coats of Polyurethane. I then covered it to get ready for the first coat of paint.

We now turn over the gondola and work on the bottom. Now lets start workimg on the frame and bolsters

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Here is a view of the center still, bolsters, and crossmembers in place. As you can see I am not afraid to use caulkimg!

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Here is a good view of the cross members. They keep the sides of the car square with the floor.

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Here it is before we start work on the coupler pockets.

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Here we have cut out the hole in the end for the coupler pocket. As you can see the hole is 3 1/2" x 1 1/2", the same size as the 2x4.

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Here I used 1/2" plywood to be the top of the coupler pocket and lower the coupler to the proper height.

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Next I used more 3/4" plywood to futher strengthen the pocket and tie it to the end.

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Now I have glued and screwed the five parts you see to each other and the coupler pocket is about to be installed in the car.

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Now the coupler pocket has been glued, screwed and nailed to the car floor, end and bolster. I have drilled and counter sunk the hole for the coupler bolt. Next a carrage bolt will be put in and bolted to the top of the coupler pocket (floor of the car) before the coupler is added.

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Here is the finished coupler pocket. You can see some of the screws I used on the side. The total height of the pocket is 1" which leaves room for shimmimg of the coupler to the exact height you want with washers. This is a very solid coupler mountimg. Also in this picture you can see I have started to layout the steel bolster plate.

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Now I have installed the carrage bolt for the bolster. It is bolted to the bolster (floor) the same way the coupler bolt was done.

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Now the steel plate has been added and screwed in place. This gives the truck somethimg to ride on and keeps the bolt from movimg. Make sure the screws holdimg the plate clear the trucks you plan to use.

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This is my completed underframe. Notice the changes I made. These have been noted and changed in the measurements and instructions

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Here it is with the truck mounted, I used a nylon lockimg nut to hold the truck in place

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Here I have used 3/4" x 1 1/2" oak for the top rails. It covers the open grain on the top of plywood and the ribs while addimg strength to the gon. Besides you just about can't put a dent in oak so that makes it perfect for the top rails that take such a beatimg on a gondola. I got the oak pre-cut in this size from Home Depot. One note, pre-drill holes for the nails in the oak!

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Here the top rail has been cut, glued and nailed in place. Put 2 nails in each corner to hold the joint solid. These 2 nails should be in the side of the oak through to the piece of oak joinimg it.

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Now after lots more caulkimg I gave the top rails and the rest of the gondola 3 complete coats of exterior oil based paint and uncovered the floor when I was done paintimg.

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Here is what you should have when done. An inexpensive, solid, stable gondola that you built!

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