By Pam's Puddle

Author  Bio Ponds, like people, come in all shapes and sizes.

Ponds, like people, come in all shapes and sizes. Each will tend to take on the personality of the owner, and reflect their own personal style. There are numerous materials from which to choose when building a pond. Attend pond tours, if possible, and look at pictures, on the web, or in books and magazines. Note which ponds you like.

Are you interested in raising koi, or are your interests more in the aquatic plants? This will help you determine the type of pond you like. If you are more into plants and flowers, you may just elect to have a few goldfish to help with mosquitos. Koi can be a bother to the gardener. On the other hand, you may be drawn to the beauty of koi, and have little interest in the plants and flowers. Many want both. This, of course is possible, but koi tend to munch on the plants.

Size:

The most common regret in pond construction is in making it too small. No matter how big you build it, you will want a bigger one. The pond should be a minimum of 24 inches for most zones. If you live in a northern zone, or will ever keep koi, plan on at least 36 inches. This is another common regret.

Safety:

Most first time pond builders get so excited about he project, and just getting the whole lined and filled with water, that they don't plan for safety. Please give careful consideration to the following: Will small children have access without supervision? A fence with a lock may be an unplanned for, but necessary expense. What about electricity? Don't use extension cords, and use GCI outlets. Be safe! Are the rocks lining the edge secure and mortared in?

Location:

Your climate plays a big factor in the decision to locate in shade or sun. In the dry desert regions, shade is important. For most areas, locate the pond where leaves will not blow into the pond. Many flowering aquatic plants will require full sun to do their best. Conversely, the bright sun that helps the plants thrive will contribute to algae bloom, and heating of the water.

Overheating of the water can be a concern for fish. Plan to budget for lilies and extra plants if you do locate in the sun. Plan on extra maintenance if you locate near trees.

Shape:

Formal designs utilize geometric and symmetric shapes. Informal shapes are free-form are assymetric. The more complex the shape, the harder it is to construct and maintain. In general, stick with a shape that will flow best with the rest of your garden.

In a smaller yard, the space itself may dictate the shape, but formal shapes usually have a larger appearance. The pond will tend to look larger on paper, or out of the ground, than in.

Liner:

There are numerous products and choices available, but usually cost will determine the choice of material used to line the pond.

Pre-formed

This is a good selection for most pond keepers to start with. The most important consideration is depth and making sure it is absolutely level. The depth usually ranges from 14" to 18", which is too shallow for most climates. They can also be very expensive. Although there are a limit to the number of shapes and sizes, there are upto 13 to choose from. This comes in fiber glass and PVC.

The added advantage is that they are rigid, and work well in sandy soils. They are stronger, and provide some additional insulation. The sides are usually more upright than the liner pond. This helps to limit access from visitors. They are also less likely to be damage by dogs or other animals jumping in.

Roll Liners:

EDPM cam be purchased in a roofing grade, or a pond safe grade. Made from the same material, the pond liner is guaranteed for the this application. This is a hotly debated topic among pond builders, so I will leave the decision to you. Roofing grade is harder to find, cheaper, but requires that you purchase an entire roll, unless you can find someone to split a roll.

Pond grade is more readily available, 3 to 6 times more expensive, but can be purchased to size. If you do decide to use roofing grade, take extra precautions in rinsing the powdery residue. This degrades in sunlight, so plan to overhand the rock in order to shade the sides. This also helps to hide it from view. PVC should be a minimum of 0.5mm or 30 mil, and is usually cheaper, and easier to work with. This, and products similar to it are used extensively in the UK. Many larger ponds, like Greg's Pond, use this, for cost reasons.

Concrete:

Concrete has been used for along time. Most pondkeepers run into problems with leaks along the line. Don't use this unless you do your homework. It is more work, but allows more flexiblilty in desing. It is not cheaper. Finish this with pool plaster, tinted a dark color for the best results. Also plan to acid wash, to remove the alkaline.

Gunnite is a product used primarily for pools, but is being used more and more for highend applications, with a healthy budget. Because of the rough texture, it is best to have this plastered, to avoid abrasions in the fish later.

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